Dismantle the dash and get the plastic sheet with the original dials on and using whatever method you prefer, rub off all the print until you have a clear plastic panel. It doesn't matter if it's not crystal clear as long as light shines through it. In fact a dull finish all over works well.

Print out your panel and cut out the basic oval shape than apply a thin even smear of PVA to the plastic all over and apply the print. Check it's lined up OK then press it for an hour to dry then trim out the holes for the needles using a scalpel and punch a little hole for the various screws and trim out the cut outs around the edges and for the immobiliser LED then reassemble but don't fit the glazing or front bezel until you have plugged it back into the loom and tested it.
Do a dash reset test and make sure all the needles are correctly placed and settling to zero properly before finishing off assembly and refitting it all. Be gentle with the needles and make sure they aren't fouling the fascia on refitting. A tiny spot of soft UHU type glue will fix any loose fitting needles but do not use strong glue.

I or the club offer no warranties or take any responsibility for any problems or damage that may occur,  all I can say is they work for me on both my 500Evo's. They will be incorrect for 250 and 125's.
Also the speedo perfectly matches my GPS speed indication when the speedo needle is positioned dead on the little white spot just below the zero point. This makes the speedo properly accurate and not over read by 5mph at 70mph. Obviously leaving it at the usual position may be better if you prefer to have the safety margin.